This lesson is for Pro subscribers only.
Subscribe to our pro plan and get access to this and hundred hours of premium content.
Drafting the Front Pattern
15:01
Master
October 22nd 2024

Vincent Abbah Nkoms
Your Instructor Today
My name is Vincent Abbah and my journey as a tailor started over 15 years ago. I've always been fascinated by the art of tailoring and the joy of creating perfectly fitted garments. Join me in exploring the intricate world of tailoring, where precision meets creativity, and every stitch tells a story.
Join the discussion
Faith Idowu
2 years ago
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
My question is if I want my suit to be double breasted, how do I do about drafting the collar and lapel
vincent abbah
2 years ago
Hello faith, if you want your suit to be double breasted you can just add few inches (say, 2.5 or 3) Infront before you start the main drafting.
After that, follow the same procedure for the collar and the lapel. You can check the double breasted course and steal a few ideas.
Very good question by the way 🔥❤️
David Ofonih
a year ago
Sir, what if I want the suit to have side slits?
vincent abbah
a year ago
Hello david.
Its simple, after drafting it, you can just cut off the slits
David Ofonih
a year ago
What are the materials need to make a female blazer, and is it suppose to contain chest pad?
vincent abbah
a year ago
Well, it’s a matter of preference, you can decide to put it or not.
Just note that if you want to put it, it shouldn’t be the hard one, it should be soft.
The materials needed for a female suit is same with male suit, so check the first video of the male suit class
Kehinde
a year ago
Is chest and bust same thing? i observe you are using same measurement for both
vincent abbah
a year ago
Yes they are the same thing.
Adewole Tunmise
a year ago
Please I can't find the video on female suit measurement.
vincent abbah
a year ago
Hello, Adewole.
Sorry about that, we will post a video on measurements taking before this week runs out
Oladosu Timileyin Dorcas
a year ago
What if i want a Shawl collar instead? Because for the male shawl collar pattern the front and back neck measurement was different, does same method apply here?
vincent abbah
a year ago
Hello Dorcas,
Yes the same thing applies here.
Oladosu Timileyin Dorcas
a year ago
I am having some difficulty here and there, for example for this female suit, I have to add allowance after joining, and that's not the case for the shawl collar pattern so i am having some issues on how to move forward especially at the collar area
Jessica Ademu
a year ago
Hi. From the button line, you went in by 4inches before marking half inch down, before drawing the curve to match the point of the half inch. My question now is if I'm drafting for a double breasted suit, do I omit the half inch at the base of the suit length since I'm not curving from the button line?
vincent abbah
a year ago
Yes, exactly. Since you are drafting double breasted suit, the down will be straight, so the half inch is not needed
Miriam
a year ago
Hi Mr Vinci , give me the link to the telegram page. Thank you!
vincent abbah
7 months ago
Its sent to your email when you registered
Tessa
a year ago
Hello Vinci , I made a suit without shoulder dart , and one of the shoulder was squeezed so I felt shoulder dart was a necessity , and I was probably missing a thing or two that was why I opted for this class Buh you don’t use shoulder dart .. does that mean shoulder dart isn’t compulsory when making a suit ?
vincent abbah
a year ago
Nah, it’s not necessary…follow this steps and you will make a great suit….share your progress with me please
Obika Cynthia
9 months ago
Is one inche the standard dart intake for the front side that or we have measure the difference between the front and the back half length
vincent abbah
7 months ago
I use it as a standard, ma
Muh Anette Iziagja
7 months ago
Greetings Sir, please I noticed you used the chest or bust measurements at the waist too, please is there any explanations for that or can the person's exact waist circumference measurements be used too?
vincent abbah
7 months ago
Hello Muh Anette, i use the waist measurement to shape down the waist….so at the end it will fit the bust and the waist accordingly….so i am confused witb your question. Please reply
Muh Anette Iziagja
7 months ago
Ohhh. So sorry for the misinterpretation Sir. It appears I followed the record in the tutorial far more than I did for the action reason I had that worry
Joy
7 months ago
Good morning Mr Vi. After taking side that of 1" won't the blazer bug for someone who is very bursting. My burst is 44" before I use 1 and half for side dart still i still see excess on my blazer at my burst area. That is my reason why I bought this package to help me solve the problem. I need ur immediate reply Sir. Thanks
vincent abbah
7 months ago
Hello Joy, it wont. I have used it for some who is burstier than 44 and it came out fine…so go ahead ma.
Evelyn Usman
7 months ago
Good afternoon sir. Please I just did the monthly subscription but when I tap on the play, it direct me back to the subscription. Help please
vincent abbah
18 days ago
Sorry about that, you might need to refresh again….its a problem with your browser
Patricia
4 months ago
Please how can I manipulate this pattern to have a v neck jacket or collarless jacket
vincent abbah
18 days ago
After drafting the normal suit on the e pattern paper, then you cut off the lapel
Alfred Geje Mlambo
3 months ago
Hello Sir .
How to take measurements
elnico
2 months ago
Please sir I'm not seeing the video of the measurement taking. How did you get the 10" for the bust?
Joy
2 months ago
So i can't have access to the video. I paid for this female suit and I never used the videos because I went to school. Now I can't access them. So sad
Joy
2 months ago
The 10k just go like that?
Lineo
2 months ago
What do I do if I want my suit to be a little oversized?
vincent abbah
18 days ago
Add some inches on the normal measurement before drafting
Miamae
2 months ago
My client shoulder to bust is 11 inches and I have gotten to the creation of the armhole part, but looking at it, it’s really long because you said your bust measurements and chest measurements are the same for this suit(I saw your comment to someone else’s similar question). This armhole is really long, it’s cutting across the bust line exactly here. But your own armhole is small. Even after I came down by 2 inches for shoulder slant, I still have 9 inches. Should I continue still??
vincent abbah
2 months ago
Hi Miamae. Yes continue.
Send me a picture on whatsapp +2348059883955
Uchechi Umegboro
22 days ago
Hi Sir,
* You worked with the bust as the chest line , does that mean measuring the armhole or using the formula (bust /6+1.5) is not needed?
* Also you added 2 inches to the , whats the reason , why is the same thing not applied on the bust and waist?
* I also notice there’s no collar extension after the shoulder line , does that mean the collar will be drafted differently?
* For the dart you used the bust , is the nipple to nipple measurement not needed?
Thanks as I await your reply.
vincent abbah
21 days ago
1. You worked with the bust as the chest line , does that mean measuring the armhole or using the formula (bust /6+1.5) is not needed?
Answer: as far as this course is concerned, we dont use that formular here.
2. you added 2 inches to the , whats the reason , why is the same thing not applied on the bust and waist?
Answer: this question isnt clear
3. I also notice there’s no collar extension after the shoulder line , does that mean the collar will be drafted differently?
Answer: Yes shoulder will be drafted differently, only time suits is drafted together with the bodice is on those reels, it doesnt apply in real life..lol
4. For the dart you used the bust , is the nipple to nipple measurement not needed?
Answer: it is, i think i mentioned it somewhere
Uchechi Umegboro
21 days ago
Sorry I didn’t go through my question before sending earlier .
You added 2 inches to the hip , whats the reason , why is the same thing not applied on the bust and waist?
Uchechi Umegboro
18 days ago
Good day Sir
Can one use more than 2 inches for the peak?
vincent abbah
18 days ago
Yes…you might want it bigger/longer, in that case you can use more than 2
Malik Fumilayo Judith
17 days ago
Please can I get the telegram link?
Uchechi Umegboro
16 days ago
Good day Sir,
In the case where the round arm is bigger or the same with bust point , after coming down by 2 inches for the shoulder slope , won’t the armhole be smaller? What can one do in such case?